How come no one told me!!!

[Knuck]

How come no one told me the front bolt on the drivers side rear spring on a J-20 was such a pain in the $@# to get to. :D Sheesh!!!! Just started putting the Rustys 4" spring lift on and got to the front bolt. I decided to wait til morning to tackle it. It was to close to beer thirty. :D Any hints on gettin that bad boy broken loose would be greatly appreciated.

[mattmopar440]

I hope thats not the one if you break the spot-weld on the nut, The bolt keeps turning in place :eek:

[Knuck]

I havent even tried to break it loose yet. I think my son with his skinny rat hands might be able to weasle a 7/8" wrench in there for reinforcement if need be. I really don't want to have to drop the fuel tank. This is the factory suspension, so this bolt hasnt been touched in 28 years. :banghead:

[jeepdreamer]

I understand!!
When I went to put on mine i had to drop the tank. Felt like fighting a gorrilla to get it loose! Got it all put back together, including a new braided flex brake line. When i went to bleed the brakes the rusty old brake line ruptured... BEHIND the gas tank!!:banghead: :banghead: :banghead: So out came the tank for a second time! Put it all together and forgot to hook up fuel lines on top of the tank... Had to drop it a 3rd time!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ARGH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Good luck with yours!!

[Knuck]

I am sure hoping I dont have to drop the tank, but if I do....Oh Well....thats the way things go.

[Stuka]

That bolt is a whole lot easier to get to on a J-Truck compared to a wagoneer. The extra wheel base means you should not have to pull the fuel tank like you do in a waggy.

[Dirtball]

You DID hit it with PBlaster for a couple of weeks BEFORE you started, didn't you?

[Knuck]

Unfortunately, No. The lift...time off and everything else came together to quickly. :eek:

[Headhoncho]

Unfortunately, No. The lift...time off and everything else came together to quickly. :eek:

It'll come off easy. The J's are always easier to work on.


JR

[4x4Dad]

Putting some heat to it can also help. The bolt expands ever so slightly and then contracts/shrinks back to normal size. In the process, the rust that is seizing the bolt in the nut breaks loose. Just be sure to wipe off any residual PB blaster or whatever else you've sprayed on it before you put the heat to it so that you don't torch the underbelly of your rig.

[Knuck]

I did hit it with some PB Blaster tonight. Hopefully it works its magic by morning. :D It was about 5:45pm when I saw the clearance between the Tank and the Frame. It instantly became Miller Time. :D

[FSJ Guy]

Hit it with PB Blaster twice a day. It helps to keep it soaked.

Dunno what the heck the stuff really does, but it works!

[Dirtball]

X2... go back out there right now and do it again... and first thing in the morning.

[billyrb]

best things you can do if it does spin:

1. drop the tank & replace the sending unit / pickup tube / filter sock while it's down;
2. clean the mating surface and re-weld the nut to the frame (more than just a spot weld) so that it doesn't come loose again

[DAHoyle]

Boy, I'm gad I tripped over this thread right now. Just put a hybrid spring pack in the front, and needed to pull my rears to put about 2 inches of lift there. Pulled my tank the other day to replace it with a new one from BJ's, and was just about to re-install it.

Think I'll brave the cold and pull the rear springs first, cause I really don't want to drop the tank twice. It isn't that bad a job, as long as long as none of the nuts have siezed, but I sure don't want to mess with it twice if i don't have to.

[newtojeeps]

Mix acetone and atf. and then squirt some of that on there, that will help loosen it. If you can wank the bolt with a hammer this may help break it loose. then try and turn it. Been there Done that, But mine were Cherokees and Wagoneers.
I am still collecting parts for my Glad:thumbsup: