Please tell me what I have done!!!

[cst756]

Just got finished installing an Aussie locker on the front of my 86 GW (Dana 44). Think everything went smoothly, until I test drive it. Almost impossible to steer to the right. When I was in reverse its like the right wheel locks up and drags. Oh yeah, this is in 2wd, symptoms are the exact same in 4wd. There is also a squeal, sounds like the ps pump (new noise of the day).

Also almost can not turn the wheel to the right when I am stopped and in park. The left side seems to be fine. I noticed that when I finally get the wheel turned right it shoots back to the middle. So what I have done wrong? Guess I go back and start again. Any advice would be a great help.

[ne715]

Just got finished installing an Aussie locker on the front of my 86 GW (Dana 44). Think everything went smoothly, until I test drive it. Almost impossible to steer to the right. When I was in reverse its like the right wheel locks up and drags. Oh yeah, this is in 2wd, symptoms are the exact same in 4wd. There is also a squeal, sounds like the ps pump (new noise of the day).

Also almost can not turn the wheel to the right when I am stopped and in park. The left side seems to be fine. I noticed that when I finally get the wheel turned right it shoots back to the middle. So what I have done wrong? Guess I go back and start again. Any advice would be a great help.

The critical item I found when I did my Aussie (in the back) was that the gap between the center pin and side caps and distance between the clutch halves needs to be toward the high side of the tolerance. This solved my popping problem with my Aussie but has not worked on my Detroit. I have had to install re-shim, re-install and re-shim the Detroit several times and it is still not right. It will drive about 1/4 block and catch and release with the most nasty "pop." Needless to say the Detroit has given me more trouble than my Aussie ever did.
Good luck

[cst756]

I don't even think mine will make it any where on the street.

[Dirtball]

Make sure it's unlocked. Jack up the frontend. Try spinning the wheels. Get back with us as to what happens.

[j20brett]

Just got finished installing an Aussie locker on the front of my 86 GW (Dana 44). Think everything went smoothly, until I test drive it. Almost impossible to steer to the right. When I was in reverse its like the right wheel locks up and drags. Oh yeah, this is in 2wd, symptoms are the exact same in 4wd. There is also a squeal, sounds like the ps pump (new noise of the day).

Also almost can not turn the wheel to the right when I am stopped and in park. The left side seems to be fine. I noticed that when I finally get the wheel turned right it shoots back to the middle. So what I have done wrong? Guess I go back and start again. Any advice would be a great help.

Do you have locking hubs? What tcase? What happens if you pull the fornt wheels off the ground and turn the steering wheel? Any binding? Did you put everything back in right? I installed mine very OUT of spec, as in there was ZERO tolerance between the center pin and side cups and it all works fine for me. Makes the clicking noise as i turn sharp with hubs locked in but in 2wd. Im not really worried about it as it doesnt wee street use and is a temporary front axle til i go d60. Is there any play in the tire/wheel with the front end up? Seems like there is more to it than just the locker...

[cst756]

Do you have locking hubs? What tcase? What happens if you pull the fornt wheels off the ground and turn the steering wheel? Any binding? Did you put everything back in right? I installed mine very OUT of spec, as in there was ZERO tolerance between the center pin and side cups and it all works fine for me. Makes the clicking noise as i turn sharp with hubs locked in but in 2wd. Im not really worried about it as it doesnt wee street use and is a temporary front axle til i go d60. Is there any play in the tire/wheel with the front end up? Seems like there is more to it than just the locker...

No locking hubs NP228. I'll have to get back to you on the rest.

[Dirtball]

Front axle disconnect? When you jack up the frontend can you turn driveshaft? Just trying to come up with things to help diagnose...

[cst756]

maybe a stupid question, but after I get it off the ground should I be in park? I was hoping it was going to be something simple like the axle not being in good, but good luck is not what i usually get.

[j20brett]

Yes, park and 2wd

[duncanstives]

Hmm... The locker may be not unlocking but to tell you the truth it sounds like something other than the locker... Did you like WAY overtighten the spindle nut on one side? I am guessing one wheel is refusing to turn.

[Dirtball]

Good call... that's part of what I'm trying to determine with my suggestions... I still don't know why he wouldn't be able to just turn it though...

If you read this while it's up in the air... see if you can steer it right and left... just make sure the rear wheels are chocked properly and that the frontend is really securely in the air.

[Tad]

I don't know much about '80's stuff but is your '86 not a NP228?
I could be very wrong here (if so, please accept my apology) but isn't a NP228 a FT case?
I have never seen one (a NP228) running locking hubs.
I know the 228 is not the viscous coupler thing but I'm just thinking there may be some interference between having drive slugs and a locker with that t-case?
I honestly do not know, never ran one, just tossing this out for consideration (that and I have to install a 228 here shortly for a buddy).

[FSJ Guy]

The NP228 just has a center differential, no viscous coupling. It will still differentiate between the front and rear drive shafts, however.

In *theory*, in stock rig, if you raised just ONE wheel, the truck would not move. But I have never seen this happen.

I don't see how the 228 would be the cause of the binding.

[DAHoyle]

The NP228 just has a center differential, no viscous coupling. It will still differentiate between the front and rear drive shafts, however.

In *theory*, in stock rig, if you raised just ONE wheel, the truck would not move. But I have never seen this happen.

I don't see how the 228 would be the cause of the binding.

The 228 isn't likely to causing the binding. It is quite likely a combination of bad setup, and the lack of locking hubs. When it senses a difference between the 2 side gears, it will try to lock up. Since the drivers side axle is freewheeling, as seen by the locker, but the passengers side isn't, I can easily imagine some strange characteristics, because the passengers side is always tied to the transfer case.

First and foremost, I would have to ask about the surface. If you are trying to drive a locked front axle on pavement, then it is not going to want to turn, period.

[elbastardo]

I ran the aussie in my XJ (no hubbs). It was a 96 so it was a non disco front end. The only time i had any problems even close to yours was the time i hit the pavment in 4hi, a short trip at that, I turned one corner SLIGHTLY on dry pavment and you could feel the binding in the front (I feel more and id of done axles the next day). A front locker will naturaly want to return to neutral.

I dont know anything about your Tcase. But Eliminating power to the front axle might help, asin pulling the driveline. That will tell you weather it is in the front axle or Tcase.

[Chevelleguy]

The 228 is a full time/part time case. It can be shifted to 2WD.

[newtojeeps]

Are all the vacuum lines on the front axle hooked up? did you maybe split on of the vacuum lines taking them off or bumping them? If you did take them off did you put them back on correctly?

[j20brett]

Is the 86 a disconnect front axle? if one side is connected in 2hi while the other is free wheeling, wouldnt that cause an issue? He could lock the disconnect in the engaged position to fix that problem

[DAHoyle]

Think it's time to quit guessing and come up with a plan for troubleshooting.

The first thing I would try is to drop the front driveshaft, and put it in 2 HI.

If the problem goes away, it is somehow connected to the t-case.

If the vehicle doesn't move, it is locked in AWD mode, and all the power would go thru the t-case differential to the front yoke, which wouldn't be hooked up. If that was the case, I would assume the 2-4wd function of the t-case was not working.

Does the 228 have a vacuum controller for 2 to 4 wheel drive, like the 229.

It is quite likely that it isn't working properly, if it has one. That would have the front right wheel always tied to the rear axle, while the front left could freewheel, assuming the front axle disconnect is working. That would certainly cause some strange symptoms.

Disconnecting the driveshaft would be my first step in finding the problem. I have a sneaking suspicion that the disconnect is working properly, and that the t-case isn't. Call it a hunch.

[cajun_lad]

Guys,
He has the dreaded 86 GW. Should be vacuum disconnect front axle. Sounds like it isn't disengaging in 2wd mode, thus steering like its in 4wd.

[DAHoyle]

Doesn't explain the one sided issue. The drivers side steers with no problem, indicating that it is freewheeling.

An easy way to tell would be to take out the drivers side drive slug. It would be the same as having that side disconnected, so if the symptom remained, you could make the assumption that it isn't the disco. I am correcct in my assumption that it is the drivers side that disconnects, I hope. I really only have a vague memory of which side disconnects.

All I'm saying is that it's time to start ruling things out, rather than guessing.

[Chevelleguy]

The '86 doesn't have a vacuum disconnect front axle, that is only the '83-'84.

[cst756]

ok I went back out today to jack it up, but before I was able I found out why the wheel is locking up, for some reason it has started hitting the front of the passenger leaf spring (never done this before). I'm beginning to believe that there is a steering issues, because of this and because the ps pump is constantly squealing and almost impossible to turn (at slow speeds) still too scared to put it on the road. Straight everything seems to function normal, only these problems with turning. Maybe these pictures will help.
http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk75/cst756/IMG_4001.jpg


http://i277.photobucket.com/albums/kk75/cst756/IMG_3999.jpg

[j20brett]

Did you remove any of the steering linkage to put in the locker??

[Adam17]

Jack the front end up in the air and put it on jack stands with the tire on but off the ground. While in the air turn your wheel left and right and see if you are still getting any binding. It sounds odd that you would get binding with out it rolling forward if was a locker problem. Seems that the binding in the steering while sitting still would lean more towards a steering problem(pump or gear box).

[DAHoyle]

You know, you are still ignoring a very critical point. You have it on pavement, or at least, you haven't indicated otherwise.

The other thing you haven't done is any troubleshooting. You are quite simply going to have to try different things. Take the **** drive slugs out. If you can steer then, the problem is somehow related to your locker. If you can't, then it would seem you messed something up somewhere on the reassembly, that is in no way associated with the locker.

I have lots of ideas what it might be, but the only way to find it is to start troubleshooting, and stop talking.

I'm not trying to be a dick, but in likelihood, you are not going to find the problem here. Sure, someone might hit the nail on the head as to what it is, but at this point, there are multiple ideas, and not all of them are right. Either pick one, or start troubleshooting.

You are going to have to figure out some sort of flow chart, changing different things, try to understand and interpret the results.

If you can't interpret the results yourself, then relay what you do, and the results to us. There is a wealth of information here for the asking, but you aren't helping.

QUIT GUESSING, and start troubleshooting.

Doug

[DAHoyle]

Jack the front end up in the air and put it on jack stands with the tire on but off the ground. While in the air turn your wheel left and right and see if you are still getting any binding. It sounds odd that you would get binding with out it rolling forward if was a locker problem. Seems that the binding in the steering while sitting still would lean more towards a steering problem(pump or gear box).

You can have difficulty turning while it isn't rolling. When installing a spool in the front, it is typically the accepted norm to phase the u-joints, same as a driveshaft. If his locker isn't unlocking, and they are out of phase, it would present some difficulty. I wouldn't expect it to be as bad as he describes, but at this point, who knows what is going on.

[cst756]

Got some more info now. I jack up the front end. When I spin one wheel the other wheel spins (same direction). When both front tires are off the ground there is no hard steering only hitting the leaf spring, even the squeal is gone. I'm starting to believe that it maybe a weak ps pump. Buddy of mine said he saw a wear mark on the leaf spring yesterday during the install indicating that I was already hitting the leaf spring, but it was not causing the tire to lock up against it. thats all I got right now. Still need to turn the driveshaft.

[DAHoyle]

Well, that is certainly something. That says a few things about what is happening. The transfer case is definitely in 2wd, if you can rotate just the front tires, and the locker is engages. If it has a disconect on the axle ( I don't know and you haven't said) then it is staying locked.



One thing that hasn't been said, is that a front locker on an axle without locking hubs is just a bad idea in general. It is sometimes done on a hardcore crawler, but there is usually some sort of hydraulic assist on the steering. The other way they get around it is to twin stick, so there are more drive options, such as a front wheel dig.

Trying to drive on a hard surface with the front wheels locked is just breakage waiting to happen, especially on a Dana44. Buy some hubs.

it is starting to sound like your locker never disengages. If that is the case, you are going to have to pull it out, and either try again, or get some locking hubs. You can get away with it locked on soft surfaces, and the hubs free on hard surfaces.

[Adam17]

Well, that is certainly something. That says a few things about what is happening. The transfer case is definitely in 2wd, if you can rotate just the front tires, and the locker is engages. If it has a disconect on the axle ( I don't know and you haven't said) then it is staying locked.



One thing that hasn't been said, is that a front locker on an axle without locking hubs is just a bad idea in general. It is sometimes done on a hardcore crawler, but there is usually some sort of hydraulic assist on the steering. The other way they get around it is to twin stick, so there are more drive options, such as a front wheel dig.

Trying to drive on a hard surface with the front wheels locked is just breakage waiting to happen, especially on a Dana44. Buy some hubs.

it is starting to sound like your locker never disengages. If that is the case, you are going to have to pull it out, and either try again, or get some locking hubs. You can get away with it locked on soft surfaces, and the hubs free on hard surfaces.



This sounds like the Winner, See if you can put it in the rear axle.

[cst756]

Well, that is certainly something. That says a few things about what is happening. The transfer case is definitely in 2wd, if you can rotate just the front tires, and the locker is engages. If it has a disconect on the axle ( I don't know and you haven't said) then it is staying locked.



One thing that hasn't been said, is that a front locker on an axle without locking hubs is just a bad idea in general. It is sometimes done on a hardcore crawler, but there is usually some sort of hydraulic assist on the steering. The other way they get around it is to twin stick, so there are more drive options, such as a front wheel dig.

Trying to drive on a hard surface with the front wheels locked is just breakage waiting to happen, especially on a Dana44. Buy some hubs.

it is starting to sound like your locker never disengages. If that is the case, you are going to have to pull it out, and either try again, or get some locking hubs. You can get away with it locked on soft surfaces, and the hubs free on hard surfaces.

I don't think it has a disconnect on the axle. the only hose is the vent tube for the axle. This test drive was in my back yard on wet grass.

[cst756]

Doesn't explain the one sided issue. The drivers side steers with no problem, indicating that it is freewheeling.

An easy way to tell would be to take out the drivers side drive slug. It would be the same as having that side disconnected, so if the symptom remained, you could make the assumption that it isn't the disco. I am correcct in my assumption that it is the drivers side that disconnects, I hope. I really only have a vague memory of which side disconnects.

All I'm saying is that it's time to start ruling things out, rather than guessing.

Whats a drive slug?

[DAHoyle]

That is the splined slug that you had to pull, to get the spindles off. iIt locks your axle shafts to the hubs. Should be a snap ring holding it on, and a big spring behind it.

[DAHoyle]

I don't think it has a disconnect on the axle. the only hose is the vent tube for the axle. This test drive was in my back yard on wet grass.

No disconnect, in that case. It acted as it should have, with it up on jacks, but it still may not be setup right, and not allowing it to disconnect to compensate for going around corners. Lockers are pretty unpredictable under a load, but it should be unlocking, or just not locking, when you are sitting still, especially in 2wd.

[elbastardo]

I ran the aussie in my XJ with no hubbs for years on and off road and never had any issues with it in 2wd, other than the clicking when turning corners. The aussie is similar to the detroit asin it lockes under power.

The XJ had the 232 Tcase. So power to the front axle comes from shifting the Tcase into 4wd, Not the vac disconnect in my case.

[cst756]

That is the splined slug that you had to pull, to get the spindles off. iIt locks your axle shafts to the hubs. Should be a snap ring holding it on, and a big spring behind it.

Thanks for all the info. I'm going to redo the job again, and make sure I have made a mistake in the install.

I read on aussie's website that the carrier has to be an open style. Not really sure thats what I have. I had small gears inside the carrier that I had to remove. Does this mean that it is not an open carrier?

[deadironrat]

One thing that hasn't been said, is that a front locker on an axle without locking hubs is just a bad idea in general. It is sometimes done on a hardcore crawler, but there is usually some sort of hydraulic assist on the steering. The other way they get around it is to twin stick, so there are more drive options, such as a front wheel dig.

Trying to drive on a hard surface with the front wheels locked is just breakage waiting to happen, especially on a Dana44. Buy some hubs.

Well someone is closed minded. There is NO problem with running an aussie in the front of a rig with no locking hubs, as long as it doesn't have a full time transfercase. I put about 10,000 street miles on my 2000 wrangler with an aussie in the front, and no locking hubs. I never once even knew it was there while in 2wd but you sure as hell could tell it was there in 4wd. If I never broke anything on that front Dana 30 then he should be safe on his 44, as long as he isn't running huge tires.

I don't know where you are getting your info from but it is WRONG, you're actually really good at trouble shooting but you completely fail to understand how a lunchbox locker works. The only time they are locked is when power is applied, no power = no lock. Thats why you can run them in the front of a rig without locking hubs, as long as you are not in 4wd the locker will act like an open diff. It will allow the tires to turn at different speeds, you will probably hear the clicking sound but thats normal.

All those reasons is why people with rear lunchbox lockers have to adjust their driving style. You can't power through a corner or you will lock up the rear tires, you have to coast. Just like with the front, no power = no lock, if you coast it will allow the rear tires to spin at different speeds around the corner. Just some food for thought.

Jacob

[deadironrat]

Thanks for all the info. I'm going to redo the job again, and make sure I have made a mistake in the install.

I read on aussie's website that the carrier has to be an open style. Not really sure thats what I have. I had small gears inside the carrier that I had to remove. Does this mean that it is not an open carrier?


Thats an open carrier, those are called the spider gears. If you had clutch packs inside the carrier then it would have been a limited slip and not open. Were the gears the only thing inside the carrier? I.E. two of those gears didn't have splined shafts with clutches riding on them did they?

[cst756]

Thats an open carrier, those are called the spider gears. If you had clutch packs inside the carrier then it would have been a limited slip and not open. Were the gears the only thing inside the carrier? I.E. two of those gears didn't have splined shafts with clutches riding on them did they?

No, they all just had one washer each, two of which I reused and two I didn't need.

[deadironrat]

Yeah thats an open carrier, I don't think the aussie would have physically fit in a limited slip anyways. Test your locker before you tear it all apart, jack up just one side of the vehicle and leave the other tire on the ground. Then see if you can spin the tire thats in the air by hand, it may take a little force but you should be able to do it (it should click when you spin it also). Then do the other side the same way. If you can spin both sides then its not the locker. My aussie instructions told me to test it this way.


If the locker checks out by doing this test then I would seriously look at some of your steering stuff before you take it all back apart. Oh, something I've done before (I have my front spooled), make sure that your power steering pump belt is tight. Its going to take more force to make that locker rachet then it did to make those gears move, if the belt isn't tight enough then it will slip and make it squeal. I know before my spool my ps pump belt was plently tight, after I put the mini-spool in it wasn't even near tight enough.

[cst756]

I took out the drive slug from the passenger side and the problem has disappeared. This is in 2wd didn't know if I should put it in 4wd with that piece out. However with that said, I don't know what it means to have it working with the drive slug out. Now I can't even get the tire to hit the leaf spring, like in the picture of the other post, I can stick my hand in between the tire and the leaf spring.

[DAHoyle]

Well, at this point, it is obvious that the problem is probably in the locker. It could be a matter of installation, or it may just be defective.

You pretty much have to pull it back out, to fix it right. You could bypass the problem with locking hubs, but it could create a bigger problem later on.

[cst756]

Well, at this point, it is obvious that the problem is probably in the locker. It could be a matter of installation, or it may just be defective.

You pretty much have to pull it back out, to fix it right. You could bypass the problem with locking hubs, but it could create a bigger problem later on.

Well I think even with locking hubs the issue is still there in 4wd with the hubs locked. I'll give it another try, and if not then i will put it in the rear. thanks for all the info. I'll post up friday about what happens with the fix.

[DAHoyle]

Well I think even with locking hubs the issue is still there in 4wd with the hubs locked. I'll give it another try, and if not then i will put it in the rear. thanks for all the info. I'll post up friday about what happens with the fix.

You are right about the problem still being there. Its just that the soft surface which would require 4wd, would mitigate the problem, and you would probably be able to steer. The best course of action, is as you said, Start from the beginning.

[Dirtball]

Sorry, but I agree with Deadironrat... I quit trying to help on this because I got tired of you jumping in like you were the only one who knows anything... same thing on the clickety clickety thread... you take the fun out of it with your attitude. Yes, more than one person notices...

cst756... it's interesting that the tire on the spring didn't turn... now the tire is off the spring and it does... what happened between those two things? No matter what, it's not right for that to happen. Do you have stock wheels? If not what is the backspacing? The tire shouldn't be on the spring... you say your friend noticed a mark on the spring... just how tight was it on the spring? Strange...

[deadironrat]

Thanks Dirtball.

DAHoyle, I deleted all of my posts that were off topic to this thread, you are right that this isn't the place for this, and your PM box is full.

CST756, I hope you get it worked out, having a locked rig just makes offroading that much more fun.

[DAHoyle]

Last post on the subject. I am not trying to "take the fun" out of anything, for anyone.

I am trying to help the OP.

If my opinion differs from yours, or I seem abrasive, then I apologize. At the same time, I'm not going to worry much about what others think, as long as I am helping the OP. Just as you shouldn't worry too much about what I think if you are sincerely trying to help the OP.

[duncanstives]

Not to hijack but I have a 88GW part time 4x4 (np229) without locking hubs and I have an aussie in the front... I drive the p*$$ out of it every day and I can't even tell its there exept at really low speeds (no engine noise) you can here it click... When you put it in 4x4 though it locks and unlocks like it should... So yeah: You can use a aussie in a vehicle with no locking hubs no problem as long as its part time.

[DAHoyle]

Really, this isn't a thread on whether you can use an ausie without locking hubs. It is about helping someone fix their setup. If you don't like my opinion about them, then feel free to start a thread about how misguided I am, and I will be happy to debate the point ad-nauseam.

[deadironrat]

Not to hijack but I have a 88GW part time 4x4 (np229) without locking hubs and I have an aussie in the front... I drive the p*$$ out of it every day and I can't even tell its there exept at really low speeds (no engine noise) you can here it click... When you put it in 4x4 though it locks and unlocks like it should... So yeah: You can use a aussie in a vehicle with no locking hubs no problem as long as its part time.


Hey Duncanstives, would you still have installed that aussie in the front if when you were asking those questions about them a little while back (which if I recall correctly I helped with quite a few of) someone had shot down the idea?

[cst756]

Hey guys I just appreciate the help on figuring out the problem.

It has 33x12.50 on stock rims and the PO installed what I think is a 2" spacer. When it was hitting the leaf spring it was really binding into it, almost like it had more turn left in it. After removing the drive slug I drive around in reverse in my back yard (able to turn alot) and really couldn't get the wheels to hit, and the locking up was completely gone. I guess maybe it wasw locking up because of the locker when the wheel got in a bid. The weather is crap here so hopefully tomorrow I can pull it out and start over. I probably just messed up putting in.

[Adam17]

I would say you need to pull it all back apart check the locker make sure all the springs and lugs look to functioning correctly and go at it again with fresh eyes.

[elbastardo]

If you call aussie locker (dollar sais you speak to the owner). Id be willing to bet your not the first guy thats run into this. I suspect somthing in the install. BUT reading and smelling gearoil are differant.

Pull the diff cover, give them a call, and you can tell them what you see. If you pull the locker you might miss somthing important:( Theres pretty good ods your not the first, and bet your Great Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley MoogleyGreat Googley Moogley you wont be the last:thumbsup:

I ran my XJ on 33.12 50s with an aussie for years (right after they came out). I did the install myself. I ran a stock D30 front with no hubs and had no problems with it atall. I beat that poor rig so bad the rear doors wouldnt open. Im sure youll have the same luck after you figure this out:fsj:

[cst756]

I would say you need to pull it all back apart check the locker make sure all the springs and lugs look to functioning correctly and go at it again with fresh eyes.
Just ordered a new set of pins and springs, this why I know there won't be any problem when I put it back together.

[Dirtball]

I guess I'm missing something... I've been trying to figure out why the tires were hitting the springs and what the locker had to do with that. I guess one just enhanced the other. I mean, I noticed that you said it had been happening... but if it was rubbing bad enough to cause steering problems then you would have noticed them before now. If the tires aren't hitting the springs when they are straight ahead then why can't you turn them to the point where they do hit...

Ah, nuts... I'm giving myself a headache... :rolleyes:

[Billygoat]

I am with Dirtball, the drive slug should not effect the truning of the steering, if anything with it out it should allow more turn not less???
Not familar with this axle, (diagram someone?) what did you diasasemble to remove the slug? Maybe the issue is in that area?

Just a though, have you checked your knuckle? If that u-joint is froze up they do all kinds of funny things with steering

[Stuka]

Ok, I am way late here.

The reason it steers fine with the drive flange out on one side is because that tire is no longer connected to the axle. The reason you are not able to turn is because the tires have to roll a tiny bit when you turn. With the locker engaged, your tires cannot do this, which makes it so you cannot turn.

So, now we look into the reason as to why the locker is locking. And my first bet would be that you are NOT in 2wd. The indicator may say that, but that does not mean you are. The only reason the locker will lock is if it is connected to both tires (which it is, as you do not have locking hubs), and there is tension on the drive shaft. Which would be caused by you being in 4wd.

So, now to verify if you are indeed in 4wd. Since you have an NP228, this gets kind of tricky. You cannot check like you would with a regular 4wd case. As with the front tires jacked up, you can turn the front drive shaft (the center diff is open) So what you really need to do, is get a front tire off the ground, and a rear tire off the ground. All four tires would be best, but if you dont have jack stands, one tire on each axle will work. Once jacked up and in neutral with the e-brake off (block the tires on the ground) spin the rear tire. If the front tire spins, you are in 4wd. If this is the case, you need to check out the t-case actuator. If its not the case, then something in the front axle is causing the locker to lock. It would most likely be an install issue with the locker itself.

[Dirtball]

Wow... nice... very well worded...

I can sleep tonite now... ;)

[cst756]

I am with Dirtball, the drive slug should not effect the truning of the steering, if anything with it out it should allow more turn not less???
Not familar with this axle, (diagram someone?) what did you diasasemble to remove the slug? Maybe the issue is in that area?

Just a though, have you checked your knuckle? If that u-joint is froze up they do all kinds of funny things with steering

To remove the slug I just popped off the dust cap and remove a c-clip. It popped right out along with a large spring. The ujoints appeared to be moving fine when I pulled the axle.

[elbastardo]

Thats the reason i recomended pulling the front drive line. If he still has binding issues i suspect the locker install. The part of this i cant let go of, is that none of these issues occured until the locker install. I suspect the wear on the leafs were due to wheeling and nothing new.

[Dirtball]

I agree... the only reason I came back to the leaves was that he seemed to indicate that it had only been rubbing slightly before but now it was jammed up against it... maybe I read it wrong. Certainly, though, it has to do with the locker. I was trying to figure out how putting in the locker made the tire hit the spring much more. But, again, I probably saw it the wrong way or something.

Certainly curious to see how it turns out!!!

[nepatternmaker]

Stuka,

"So, now to verify if you are indeed in 4wd. Since you have an NP228, this gets kind of tricky. You cannot check like you would with a regular 4wd case. As with the front tires jacked up, you can turn the front drive shaft (the center diff is open) So what you really need to do, is get a front tire off the ground, and a rear tire off the ground. All four tires would be best, but if you dont have jack stands, one tire on each axle will work. Once jacked up and in neutral with the e-brake off (block the tires on the ground) spin the rear tire. If the front tire spins, you are in 4wd. If this is the case, you need to check out the t-case actuator. If its not the case, then something in the front axle is causing the locker to lock. It would most likely be an install issue with the locker itself."

Will this work in 4HI, 4LO or both on the NP228. I'm guessing this will only work in 4LO. I have an 86 GW w/ 228 and I thought the front and rear were not connected in 4HI. Could easily be mis-informed, though.

dave

[newtojeeps]

I would think all wheels would be connected in 4hi or 4lo. only in 2hi and neutral would the fronts be disconnected.

[DAHoyle]

Stuka,

"So, now to verify if you are indeed in 4wd. Since you have an NP228, this gets kind of tricky. You cannot check like you would with a regular 4wd case. As with the front tires jacked up, you can turn the front drive shaft (the center diff is open) So what you really need to do, is get a front tire off the ground, and a rear tire off the ground. All four tires would be best, but if you dont have jack stands, one tire on each axle will work. Once jacked up and in neutral with the e-brake off (block the tires on the ground) spin the rear tire. If the front tire spins, you are in 4wd. If this is the case, you need to check out the t-case actuator. If its not the case, then something in the front axle is causing the locker to lock. It would most likely be an install issue with the locker itself."

Will this work in 4HI, 4LO or both on the NP228. I'm guessing this will only work in 4LO. I have an 86 GW w/ 228 and I thought the front and rear were not connected in 4HI. Could easily be mis-informed, though.

dave

In 4HI, the front's are connected to the rear, thru a differential, not locked,

[cst756]

I took it back apart and redid the work. I guess did something wrong during the installation. When I took the cover off 2 of the spring and 1 pins came out with the oil, so that settled it for me. Well it works great now. Going up to Uwharrie on the 17th to test it out a little.

Thanks for all the help.

[Dirtball]

:dancingbanana:

[elbastardo]

:thumbsup:

The aussie wont let you down. But your power steering wont like you:rolleyes:
Glad it was a simple fix.

[j20brett]

:thumbsup:

The aussie wont let you down. But your power steering wont like you:rolleyes:
Glad it was a simple fix.

HAHA! Yeah my linakges lasted one trip out on the aussie and everything is jacked up now. but ive got highsteer stuff in teh garage...:D