Kenall
07-29-2001, 02:52 PM
i change 2 of the aftermarket gauges this weekend. got rid of the ammeter and installed a new mechanical water temp and oil press gauge, both from summit racing.
it was wired like this, the 120A GM alt im using sent its power to the old ammeter and then back to the bat. from there another 10ga wire took power to the junction block, which on mine, is located just to the left of the wiper motor, on the firewall.
the OE AMC volt meter (VM)i was using took it power from the wire that was feeding the sextuplet gauge panel i installed in my dash. i figger that there was soo must resistance in the wiring to that point, (35 years to be exact) that the gauge red 13 at good times 11 anywhere else... :( i just took this for what it was.
so with getting rid of the ammeter i wood reroute some of the wires that connected the alt to the ammeter. so i wood use the wire FROM the bat to feed the volt meter. i wood take the wire FROM the alt and connect it to the junction block. the wire from the bat to the junction block wood remain.
if i just attached the wire from the bat to the VM the gauge wood be ON all the time and will consume power. being afraid of murphys law, i decide...no. so i use a relay to switch power on and off to the VM via the ig key switch. this way the VM wood be a direct connect to the bat only when the key is on.
a bunch of wire crimping later all is secure and i fire up the SBCv8. HOLY MOTHER OF PEARL, NOW ITS OVER 14V!!!... :D hey, the interior lights do seem brighter, the turnsignals do cycle faster, the rear window doesnt stop down with 2" of glass still showing. this is neet :D
so the engines idling right along, and im happy, and the gauge seems stuck on 14. which for the AMC VM is the upper limit for the safe zone...what whoa...im i over charging now? turn on headlights, it dont move, turn on the hibeams, it moves to 14...radio, nope, still on 14. well i subscribe, alts ARE supposed to output 14V at idle anyway, i shood take pride now that i finally got the wiring correct.
did i wire it properly??? :confused:
[ July 29, 2001: Message edited by: Kenall ]
it was wired like this, the 120A GM alt im using sent its power to the old ammeter and then back to the bat. from there another 10ga wire took power to the junction block, which on mine, is located just to the left of the wiper motor, on the firewall.
the OE AMC volt meter (VM)i was using took it power from the wire that was feeding the sextuplet gauge panel i installed in my dash. i figger that there was soo must resistance in the wiring to that point, (35 years to be exact) that the gauge red 13 at good times 11 anywhere else... :( i just took this for what it was.
so with getting rid of the ammeter i wood reroute some of the wires that connected the alt to the ammeter. so i wood use the wire FROM the bat to feed the volt meter. i wood take the wire FROM the alt and connect it to the junction block. the wire from the bat to the junction block wood remain.
if i just attached the wire from the bat to the VM the gauge wood be ON all the time and will consume power. being afraid of murphys law, i decide...no. so i use a relay to switch power on and off to the VM via the ig key switch. this way the VM wood be a direct connect to the bat only when the key is on.
a bunch of wire crimping later all is secure and i fire up the SBCv8. HOLY MOTHER OF PEARL, NOW ITS OVER 14V!!!... :D hey, the interior lights do seem brighter, the turnsignals do cycle faster, the rear window doesnt stop down with 2" of glass still showing. this is neet :D
so the engines idling right along, and im happy, and the gauge seems stuck on 14. which for the AMC VM is the upper limit for the safe zone...what whoa...im i over charging now? turn on headlights, it dont move, turn on the hibeams, it moves to 14...radio, nope, still on 14. well i subscribe, alts ARE supposed to output 14V at idle anyway, i shood take pride now that i finally got the wiring correct.
did i wire it properly??? :confused:
[ July 29, 2001: Message edited by: Kenall ]