Engine Rebuilding--Getting Started

[Brown Bear]

Well, since my engine decided to spray oil all over the engine compartment yesterday, I decided that it would be a good time to go ahead and rebuild the engine smile.gif So, I want to get the engine rebuilt, which I will do myself in my "spare" time, and I don't want to spend a whole big wad of cash (being in college and living on my own kinda hampers my monetary availability structure smile.gif ). What kind of kit should I buy? Re-ring, re-main? I want to do all bearings and stuff. I will also be doing valves since I had valve tap before all this happened anyways. Should I go ahead and plan on doing valves and valve seats? My engine has either 75k or 175k, not exactly sure which yet. The haynes manual lists a whole slew of tools that I should have. What can I get away without? By my math, I'd have to spend about $280 on most of the tools (which doesn't bother me too much cause...their tools). Anybody got a good lead on where to get a kit from? JCWhitney has a rering kit for $130.95, is this complete enough for what I need? Thanks for all your help guys.

The saga begins.

[Retro93]

Brown Bear,

I would check out Performance Automotive Warehouse for your rebuild kit. They can be found here:http://www.pawinc.com/
You can custom build your kit to fit your needs. They are a reputable company, and real nice folks to deal with. Be sure and order their catalog..it is amazing.

As far as special tools, about all you will need is a ring compressor, ridge reamer, and harmonic balancer puller. You will need a cylinder hone to break the glaze if you aren't going to have your block bored. All of these tools are available from PAW...or your local auto parts store.

Enjoy the rebuild process..it is alot of fun.

Hope this helps.

Regards...Kim

[Retro93]

Errr..you might want a GOOD torque wrench to the tools needed list. smile.gif Don't buy one of those cheap beam types...buy the best you can afford.

Just my .02 cents worth.

Kim

[porchpiggy]

Hey, BrownBear I wouldn't jump to the conclusion you need a rebuild right away. Heck, my 88 was spewing and seeping in all directions, and after numerous seals and gaskets I'm proud to say it only throws a little out the oil fill tube now. A compression test could really tell you a lot about the shape of your rings and stuff. If you can keep it running for a little longer, after you graduate and become rich and successful, you can doo a high dollar performance rebuild. :D

[OBX-AUTOMOTIVE]

MAY I JUST SAY THIS...I HAVE EVERYTHING TO DO A REBUILD...... .NOW, THE LAST REBUILD I DID WAS ON A FOUR BANGER...AN EZOOZOO!! AND THAT WAS ABOUT...$1,200..... .....ME!!!!! :eek: :eek: :rolleyes:

[Crazy_Jeepman]

I would have to go with your rig having 175,000 quite possible to only have 75,000 on it. I am just assessing your rig by what little I know of it. I would think if it had 75,000 you would not have the valve noise a now the oil problem. I would definitely follow the advice of porchpiggy before ripping things apart. If a rebuild is indeed the solution, I would consider this. At a 175,000 miles unlikely a re-ring kit would be in order, pretty sure a master kit would be needed. The heads and block should be sent in for machine work, hot tanked, rebore, cam bearings, magna fluxed, valve job, valve guides and seals, crank should be at the very leased checked and polished but more likely a reground crank will be the end result. Rods resized, new pistons and pins pressed ECT. ECT. Like GEMOBX/77/401 mentioned $1,200 on a 4 cyl. I used to do all my own rebuilding. Now with the $$$$ spent at a machine shop the price of a master kit, you can buy a rebuilt cheaper and with a warranty. If you have never done a rebuild before I do not think it is a wise choice to do it by yourself with the $$$$ at stake. I know lots of guys will tell you oh you don't need to do all that save the money skip that do the important stuff. I agree there are things you can get away with. My point is when you buy a rebuilt for about $1,100 to 1,400 from a parts house. All the steps I mentioned are done, and more. No mater what you will spend at least a $1000.00 doing your own and will still have used parts in it. No warranty. Check out your motor find out what happened fix that, if it is to far gone, check out the costs for a total rebuild. Call several of your local parts houses and see what they have for prices on rebuilds. Unless you are planning a performance rebuild I would buy a motor. What is the condition of the Wag, maybe a good used motor would be the answer. I put a new rebuilt in a 89 Grand Wag wish I had not done that it is a piece of junk, it is a waste. Pulling it soon gonna junk the Wag. I am not telling you that rebuilding your motor is wrong. I just want to point out that there are more options and maybe save you some problems and $$$$ Wish you were closer, I have several good 360's, and a rebuilt with 2,500 miles on it

[andy d]

CJM +PP are offering sound advice.dont be in such a hurry to tear down the mtr

[Ralph]

I just priced stuff this week with a machinist who came a-prospecting into our shop. The block, heads, and crankshaft will cost around $600 plus the price of any premium parts I throw in. I've been collecting internal components for the engine over the last year or so, usually when things like a cam or lifters come up cheap on eBay. So I'll have about $1000 into my engine altogether.

But that total includes the Carter AFB carburetor and either a Holley or Edelbrock intake manifold. Not sure which manifold just yet, but will probably use the Edelbrock with the carb for now, as I plan to use the Holley manifold to build a port injection setup.

[Crazy_Jeepman]

Ralph remember (before I knew about this place) the Cam and lifters I had on eBay, and you bid on and lost to someone else??? I was never contacted and still have it as well as the timming set. If you need it let me know it is just in my way. tired of trieing to protect it from the elements. ;)